Let It Bleed
"I slammed my hips so bad," Johnson says. "I thought I was paralyzed for a second, I slammed it so hard, and then I could swim again. It was so much pain that I was on the little dinghy that they were shooting photos from, laying in the boat. Eventually, I came in and watched Kelly just completely get barreled across the point, and my leg started feeling a little better. Every time I saw another wave, I'd try and stand up to see if I could put any weight on it and I couldn't really but I just kept thinking, 'I'm never gonna see waves like this without any other humans on it ever again, so I gotta get out there.' So I went out to surf for about another two hours after I hit my leg. The next day I literally couldn't walk, I was limping so bad."