Best Foot-Long Meal: The Sumo Dog
This pop-up is the co-creation of Jeffrey Lunak, a disciple of Iron Chef fusion master Masaharu Morimoto. His partner is Nic Adler, owner of crusty Sunset Boulevard club The Roxy. Fittingly, this thing pushes up against the edge of indecency, even if it's not so punk to eat a hotdog with a fork and knife. This dog contains multitudes. It's salty-savory as you'd expect, but the unctuous mess topping the foot-long beef frank – good snap, by the way – ensures your every taste bud gets its due. The primary sauce source is a tōgarashi-seasoned spicy pork chili/mayo/cheese combo. Dry goods include scallions, orange pickled peppers and shaved white cabbage. Classic green relish gets spooned on to remind us what we're eating, before the wiener's sprinkled with nori slivers, making it look like an oblong urchin. The seaweed gives up loads of umami, of course, but it also confirms that the Sumo Dog is, in fact, a sausage masquerading as some kind of dragon roll.