Do It Yourself
Maison Martin Margiela figures prominently into "Punk: From Chaos to Couture." The Belgian designer Margiela came up in the radical late-Seventies Antwerp scene and once worked for Gaultier. He factors heavily into the "D.I.Y. Bricolage" room (celebrating construction from, essentially, whatever's lying around the factory floor) with his mostly-Eighties works made from broken plates, strands of beads and shredded paper.
Margiela is a welcome inclusion because he has a radical element to his designs that is separate from familar punk tropes. He is not copying Sid Vicious et al. when he justifies a typically cheapening gesture (ripping, pinning) as bold, with a price point to match. His use of plastic textiles actually feels as though it could have been a significant avant-garde moment in itself, unlike the haughtily distressed gowns.
Seen here: Gary Wilson circa 1977; Maison Martin Margiela look from spring/summer 2011.