The Capri Lounge: Rants and Raves from Rolling Stone's Editors

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Elvis Costello – Foodie? The Momofuku Mystery

March 20, 2008 5:11 PM

Elvis Costello isn’t releasing his new album on CD — it'll only be available on vinyl and as a digital download. And while that's a fascinating move, I have to admit that I’m way more interested in the album's name: Momofuku. Did Costello, who currently lives in New York, name his new release after the hottest restaurants in the city: chef David Chang's Momofuku Noodle Bar, Momofuku Ssam Bar, and the new, impossible-to-get-into Momofuku Ko?

Costello's reps weren’t immediately able to provide an answer, so I went straight to Chang, whose East Village restaurants serve his hyper-inventive, heavy-on-the-pork cuisine in a rock and roll setting: waiters wear t-shirts, you sit at counters, and loud music is always playing (plus, there's a huge vintage Band poster hanging at Noodle Bar). "We've heard he's a fan of the restaurant, but I doubt he'd name his album after us," says Chang. "That would be too weird. It blows my mind. There’s just no way! He's Elvis Costello, for Christ's sake!"

Chang, a "big-time" Costello fan, notes that "Less Than Zero" is on heavy rotation in his restaurants. He's never met Costello, though, and says that the only rock-musician regulars he knows of are the Hold Steady and Superchunk's Mac McCaughan. But if Costello's album name is a tribute to Chang's restaurant, does he get a much-coveted hook-up for Ko — which seats only fourteen people and accepts reservations only online? "Nope!" says Chang. "Even if I wanted to get a table, I'd have go through the reservation system."


Brian Hiatt
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9 Comments


Rantipole | August 12, 2008 8:37 AM

Er, Momofuku does not originally refer to the NYC restaurants. Momofuku was the inventor of instant noodles in Japan. I would bet, though certainly don't know for sure, that Elvis was referring to noodles generally, not the noodle mini-chain in NYC.

Anonymous | July 31, 2008 3:56 PM

My older brother introduced me to costello's music in 1977 when he wore out his copy of My Aim is True. I will always love his early albums as they bring me back to my rebellious early teen years. Of course his more recent releases are more highly crafted lyrically and musically, with more than thirty years of musical and life experience behind him. But for me, the early albums, full of youthful irreverence, perfectly captured the essence of "new wave" and unless you experienced them at the time they were released you just wouldn't understand. Any other old guys want to back me up?

RM

Pete | May 18, 2008 9:23 PM

By the way, I thought Elvis made a big thing of not eating meat? He has got tubbier in the last 15 years; maybe he was lying all along?

Pete | May 18, 2008 9:19 PM

Armed Forces IS overrated (and it's not rated particularly highly by Elvis fans, who tend to be split between This Year's, Get Happy!, Imperial Bedroom, Blood and Chocolate and King of America), but Chemistry Class is still the most opulently, hilariously offensive song ever recorded from the most opulently, hilariously offensive guitarslinger around. There's been a lot of junk in the 90s and 00s, but I think When I was Cruel and Brutal Youth are highlights. Something for everyone with EC...

spiderkiss | May 15, 2008 12:03 PM

Costello's CDs in 90s and 00s are his best. I think "Armed Forces" is overrated. I mean, "Moods for Moderns" ?

Big Fan | May 13, 2008 5:17 PM

He explained the naming convention in an interview I read somewhere on line (I apologize for not having the link). Apparently, he named the album after the inventor of instant noodles. The reference was chosen because he felt it was an appropriate metaphor for how the album came together (JUST ADD WATER!).

Shamus | May 11, 2008 2:31 PM

I guess he changed his mind about releasing it on CD. I just bought it today.

nick | May 8, 2008 11:30 AM

The 'fuku' bit of the name is interesting, after all its what costello has been saying to everyone for years

Melanie Isaksen | April 24, 2008 1:03 AM

Elvis Costello and the Imposters played a rocking show in Memphis last night...
second time in a row he has graced us with a performance on the same day as his latest record release. He told us personally that "Momofuku" was named after the inventor of the Cup Noodle... yeah!

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