Like blues traveler and spin Doctors, God Street Wine built their reputation by playing for bar crowds weaned on classic rock but sophisticated (or stoned) enough to appreciate extensive, blues-based jamming. With their Mercury debut, Red, the still-fledgling group tries to adapt its freewheeling sensibilities to relatively concise pop songs.

The Grateful Dead are an obvious reference point, though by no means are they the only influence that the members of God Street Wine wear on their sleeves. With his nasal, breathy voice, lead singer Lo Faber can effectively ape monsters of album-oriented rock ranging from Bob Dylan (on the folky ballad "Red and Milky White") to Roger Waters (on the brooding "Made of Blood"). Elsewhere, the group evokes "Heroes"-era Bowie ("Which Way Will She Go?") and Quadrophenia-era Who ("Maybe"). These tributes are executed with the combination of savvy musicianship and scrappy charm that distinguishes a good bar band, but the future of rock & roll this ain't. (RS 737)

ELYSA GARDNER